Culinary Students Visit Ayrshire Farm

AF_1Culinary Students Visit Ayrshire for a Perfect Day Down on the Farm

Ayrshire Farm graciously welcomed LAC’s Culinary students back for another tour of their state of the art facilities.  Ayrshire Farms are champions of certified organic farming, reviving traditional best practices of land stewardship and animal husbandry.

We visited the greenhouse which specializes in micro greens, those flavorful and nutritious first shoots of herbs and vegetables that are so much more than a décor on the plate.

We visited the kitchen of the mansion, resplendent in copper and wood, and at its heart, a top of the line cast iron AGA stove, which never goes out.  And yes, those are cat cushions at the foot of the stove; Ayrshire is home to dozens of cats.AF_2

Along the way to the chicken coop, we stopped to check out an Ayrshire Turkey who felt the urge to put on a show for us.  At Thanksgiving, a turkey from Ayrshire can go for over $200!

The visit to the beef  aging room could not have been better timed; Culinary students just had their second beef lecture with Chef Francois the afternoon before!  Our house, Brian Lichorowic gave the students a primer on grading beef, and we each got a chance to grade the hanging carcasses the way the FDA guys do, which is not that scientific.  Here, Bao, Christos, and Taylor are hanging out in the beef room while Sulidan checks the marbling of a prime rib.

AF_3AF_4Here,Isabella, who came out as a vegetarian on this trip, showed her mettle and stepped up to grade the beef hands on.

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Apropos to passing by the poultry area, we reached the chicken’s final destination, the killing room where chickens are processed in the most humane manner in the business.  While FDA agents are stationed at Ayrshire for the entire process of slaughtering and cleaning chickens, Ayshire exceeds all regulations, in fact the local inspectors have had to authorize new certifications just to describe the standards set by Ayrshire poultry.

After visiting the Commissary and Prep Kitchens where all the food is prepared from scratch for the Hunter’s Head Tavern and the Home Farm Store, we had a good conversation about the local bees and honey.  Turns out our host, Brian promotes the consumption of local raw honey  as a way to minimize allergic reactions to local pollen.

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Then, onto the celebrities of the farm, the Gloucestershire Old Spot Pigs , who appeared to be quite content in their muddy pen.

On our last stop on the farm, we gazed over a herd of Heritage Breed Highland and Ancient White Park cattle grazing on sweet grass.

Thanks to Brian Lichorowic and the staff at Ayshire for a gracious, enriching, and enlightening day on the farm.

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Endless Summer Harvest

2013-04-27_10-35-27_71 Endless Summer Harvest Farm Students at Farm Wine TastingAs told by Voula Bourzikos, Culinary Arts Teaching Assistant

Culinary students went on a field trip this week to Endless Summer Harvest and met the farm’s President and General Manager, Mary Ellen Taylor. She is amazing! Everyone in Loudon county knows her as a warm and vibrant person with lots of energy and personality. You can tell just by talking to her how much she loves her job and how much she really enjoys working with local chefs. She told us that ten years ago, most of the profits made by the farm were through farmers markets, however now the bulk of the farm’s revenue comes through working/growing lettuce and herbs for well-known DC-area chefs. As we toured the green houses, she let the students sample all different kinds of lettuce and herbs and even gave us some to take home with us, which we ate in our sandwiches for lunch at the vineyard.

Endless Summer Harvest grows hydroponically in a high tech controlled agricultural environment in Northern Virginia, specifically, Purcellville. The farm’s expertise is in providing delicious, locally grown, pesticide free produce, 365 days a year, for sale at farmers’ markets, up-scale restaurants and specialty stores.

Although, it was hard to top Endless, we then went to North Gate Vineyard high quality wine grapes in Loundon County with a focus on Chardonnay, Viognier, Petit Manseng, and Bordeaux Reds. There we met owner Vicky Fedor, who gave us a tour of the facility and talked about the wine making process. Chef Jake asked Vicki how long it took to age the wine in barrels and the students said “Until it’s done!” Which of course made everyone laugh b/c this is always Chef’s response to them when asked “How long does it take to cook, Chef.”

We sat outside, ate lunch and enjoyed some wine. My favorite part of the field was when I asked the students about externships and Nicole said these wise words: “Picking your school and instructor is as important as your first chef/restaurant.”

Tailoring our Cooks for Success

The Culinary Institute of America made national news this past Tuesday when about one fifth of the student body staged a walk out from classes, protesting what they called “a weakening enforcement of educational standards.”  According to the New York Times, an organizer of the walk out stated that the “core mission” of their protest was to “protect the reputation of the institution and the value of the diploma.” One of the primary grievances of the current protest is a failure to enforce dress codes in the classroom.  Protesters also expressed concern about whether the school is producing the skilled, disciplined chefs of tomorrow, or alumni who are little more than telegenic lightweights, calling their school a chef factory more than a culinary school.

At LAC, students and faculty wear a full cook’s uniform in class in both the kitchen and in lecture.  During the first few weeks of the professional program each student is graded every day  on the presentation of their uniform as well as their personal hygene and grooming. Shave last night instead of this morning, one point off.  Hair more than an inch out of the cap, one point off.  Colored tee shirt showing through the white uniform, one point off.  Missing a neckerchief or a hat or an apron, 5 points off.  Pants not hemmed?  5 points off.  It doesn’t take long for the sting of a poor uniform grade to modify a Phase 1 student’s approach to dressing and grooming.

After all, we teach our students to present themselves as the type of cook you want to watch handling the food you are going to eat.  We inculcate an sense of hygene, sanitation, and crisp presentation among our students.   As long as a student wears a LAC jacket they project our brand as well as theirs, and they learn to be stewards of both.

Well, speaking as a graduate of L’Academie de Cuisine (LAC), and as a Chef Instructor in the Professional Program at LAC, I can state that we ratchet up the enforcement of educational standards with every session we teach.  While our syllabus hews closely to the classic drills of foundation skills and knowledge, with each new start, we refine the complexity, relevance, and effectiveness of our program.  We update our curriculum based on direct feedback from the chefs who hire our students.  And our students do get hired.  If a cooking school is ranked on the hire-ability of our students and graduates, LAC comes out on top.  Lightweights and under-acheivers wither in the glare of our small class size and constant drilling.

While great cooks prepare great food, great chefs prepare great cooks at LAC

The New York Times article can be read here:  http://www.nytimes.com/2013/04/24/dining/student-chefs-protest-at-culinary-institute-of-america.html?_r=0

Interview with Pastry Students

055Students in the Evening Pastry Arts Program reflect on how far they’ve come in 9 months.
Below are excerpts from LAC’s interviews with students Diane, Meghan, Rocio and Ally.

1. Why choose LAC’s evening Pastry Arts Program.

Diane: I currently have a full-time job in the federal government. I needed to keep my job while I was pursuing my education in the Pastry Arts, until I was ready to fully transition to a new career 9 months after starting. I also really enjoy the small class sizes and the high quality ingredients used every day which really makes a difference in the final products.

Meghan: LAC is close to where I live and I really liked the night class option because I work during the day. Also, when I visited LAC the staff really welcomed me with open arms. I didn’t feel like a prospective student at all.

Rocio: I looked at other pastry schools in the area, but felt that the small class sizes and classic curriculum at LAC were the right fit for me.

2. How have you balanced work and school?Hors d'Oeuvres Buffet 002

Diane: Balancing full-time work in the federal government with my commitment to pastry school, has forced me to organize myself better and manage my time more efficiently on a daily basis. You just need to be focused on what you want, what you need to accomplish, and get to it. You will then look back and be amazed at how much you can balance! There are days when I am really tired after a full day of work, but my excitement and passion for baking and pastry keeps me going!

Meghan: Currently I have a full-time job as a server during the day and have also started my externship a little early at Praline Bakery & Restaurant in Bethesda, MD. Balancing work and school has been a challenge at times, however, I have a set schedule at my day job and have worked out with my boss that I have two days off during the week, and a few hours between getting off my shift and getting to school. Life is a little hectic, but I’m doing what I love and enjoying every minute of it!

Rocio: I am currently a middle school teacher and have to admit that balancing work and pastry school has been more challenging than I imagined. Before beginning the program I thought 20 hours a week of school was not much [but it’s incredible how much gets packed in!] Also I commute from Northern Virginia which takes an extra hour out of my day. I’ve done my best to stay organized and the thing that has really gotten me through this is my excitement and passion for pastry and baking!!

 113 (1)3. How have your pastry skills/knowledge expanded since attending LAC’s Pastry Arts Program?

Diane: Oh my goodness, where to begin. I came into the first day of class with a basic knowledge of pastry that I had gained through watching and helping my grandmother and mother while growing up. I was not extremely skilled in anything in particular. However, I felt like I knew a bit. When we went over the syllabus on day one of class, I realized how I didn’t even recognize many of the names of items and concepts we would be covering. I had no idea with Pastillage and Brisee were, let alone how to properly roll dough for Croissants and other delicious pastries! I thought to myself, will I be able to do this? The answer to that question is simple, Absolutely!! Now that I look back on the last 9 months I am absolutely amazed at how far I have come and how the skills and knowledge I have now will last a lifetime!
Meghan: Coming into the program, I had dabbled in making a few cakes here and there, using fondant a little, but other than that, I was pretty much in the dark. The fundamental skills I’ve learned in school have become part of my everyday life now. I have a strong foundation with which I can understand why a recipe doesn’t turn out right, or how I can fix something when it goes wrong. With the strong skill set I have now, I can also begin building my own recipes.

Rocio: I’ve learned correctly how to do things I never realized I didn’t know… How to make a meringue properly, how to build a celebration cake properly and all about croissants and laminated doughs! Even in these last few week of school I’m still learning how to be better every day.

4. Now that you’re headed out to your externship, how do you feel about transitioning to a new career?

Diane: I am also very excited about my upcoming externship. I’ll be at Sweet Hearts Patisserie in Annapolis. Sweet Hearts is a beautiful patisserie that offers a wide variety of delicious treats. I am looking forward to learning directly from the owner, Chef Kristen and her skilled staff.

Meghan: Putting all my new skills to the test and taking pride in all I’ve accomplished is an incredible feeling! I’m a little sad about leaving the school and moving on to my externship, mainly because school has become a second home over the past nine months. I am very excited about my externship though. Going out into the world and putting all my skills to the test as well as expanding on them and learning new things every day is really exciting!

Ally: I’m getting ready to move outside the area up to Buffalo, NY. I’m looking forward to beginning my externship in DessertDeli, where I can put my skills to the test in a real-world environment.

0565. What advice do you have for someone considering attending the LAC Pastry Arts Program?

Meghan: Work hard, be patient with yourself as you are learning, and keep yourself organized!! Have pride in all that you do, and make Chef Claude proud! But most of all, ENJOY it and HAVE FUN! I enjoy a challenge and this program is enough of a challenge to keep me on my toes, as well as make it enjoyable along the way!

Rocio: I recommend prospective students come visit the school during a special event or to observe a class. This way they can really see the pastry students in action and get an honest look at the program.

Diane: Don’t hold back on your passion! I would also advise prospective students to visit the school. Don’t be intimidated or overwhelmed by the depth of skills that are represented when you visit. On Day One of class, I didn’t know how to do 90% of what I can now do. But you really will learn it, understand it, and feel so proud of all that you accomplished by the end of the program.

Externship Plus One: What a Year! Part II

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Looking back at my work this past year both at VOLT and Family Meal - I would be remiss not mention the people who have made my year so fulfilling. I may plate a dessert, or send out a side, but my ability to do so is dependent upon the many people around me that all play a part in making our kitchen work.

Working in a professional kitchen is all about teamwork. Every station depends on the support of other cooks on other stations, support of sous chefs, and on some days anyone who can lend a hand in a given moment. My externship started very much like Phase I at LAC: lots of focus on individual work, honing my basic skills and simply learning my way around  before I could even begin to help others.  To start out on my externship, I supported most of the cooks around me: gathered ingredients, did prep and did a lot of watching and learning. When I was ready, I took on wheat seemed like a huge responsibility at the time: managing my own station, but quickly realizing I couldn’t do it without the support of those around me.  Much like the teamworking concepts stressed in Phase 2, I realized my teammates and I had to work together if we were ever going to be ready for service.

During my externship I often found that neither my newfound speed nor my budding efficiency was enough, and into the breach stepped other chefs. When it comes down to the wire, everyone is willing to pitch in to ensure a successful service. But that support from your colleagues comes easier once you have proven yourself as a hard worker. Likewise on days when your own tasks are done, stepping up to help others builds that circle of support and camaraderie which strikes me as the key to a successful kitchen.

The support of people beyond the kitchen has also been critical to this first year’s successes. Transitioning from a  traditional weekday work schedule into the professional kitchen required sacrifices from family and friends. The certainty of sitting down to dinner every night with Sean was replaced by grabbing a bite together when I got lucky enough to have a night off. Family traditions and holidays reequired adjusting and maneuvering, changing locales, and sometines changing days. My weekends were no longer the traditional Saturday Sunday, but what seemd at frirst to be a random Monday or Thursday I learned quickly to savor, whether or not it lined up with friends or holidays.  Classmates from LAC I saw every day, now depend on late-night/early morning texts or phone calls and a fortuitous alignment of days off to catch-up, commiserate, and support one another.

The first year has definitely brought home the fact that being part of a professional kitchen takes the support of everyone around me, both inside the kitchen and out. I do not take lightly that support than enables me to have moments like the one pictured here with a young guest at Family Meal who was very happy to make his own dessert one evening at the restaurant. Bringing happy memories through food is why we build teams in the kitchen, and make sacrifices outside it.

Externship Plus One: What A Year!

307by Michael Gray

Milestones are useful for retrospection. As I approach my one-year anniversary of the start of my LAC externship, reflection has become a major pastime. I hope you join me in the next few weeks as I share some of them. To summarize the reflections, I have to say simply: What A Year!

A year ago I was full of excitement, fear, anticipation, trepidation and hope as I walked in the doors at VOLT.  Thinking back on my first night trying to create canapés that had one component apiece and how difficult and overwhelming it seemed I have to laugh a little. We were told that improving speed is the primary purpose of the externship – looking back I can see the improvements clearly, even if I could not as I was going through it. From single components I advanced to canapés comprising 6-7 components with advanced techniques such as agar pudding and liquid nitrogen dippin’ dots; plus taking on the lobster rolls and oysters on the half shell for the bar. More was constantly asked and all of it helped build speed.

Then came Family Meal and a volume of customers that VOLT did not approach on its busiest days even on a very slow day for Family Meal. Speed had to improve again or down in flames I would go. But in addition to building speed, I also started thinking in terms of planning the mise en place for the station on a multi-day strategic approach. Building the volume where possible to be able to focus on service rather than production when in service proved another useful building block.

032The next evolution came when I started to seek out production items to work on during service. Something once unthinkable transformed into an almost compulsive need to be producing at all times. On those rare days where production maxed-out, I branched out to other tasks such as expo or assisting other stations. This first year has been an evolution from survival to becoming a productive member of the kitchen….just what they told us at the externship panel the first year should be when we started down this path.

(Pictures:  Top left: me and my former Teaching Assistant Allyson Lara; bottom right, Chef Bryan’s book, definitely a must-have for anyone into food.)

Culinary Grad, Emily Hagel writes about using her culinary education to end homelessness in DC…Wait, what?!

miriam's kitchenI’ve always believed people, places, and palates are uniting forces. A background in international relations and nearly a decade of study and professional ventures in the global arena, my first career was benchmarked by names, numbers, nominations, and frankly, what I ate for lunch. Authentic Andalucían tapas, spice markets in Istanbul, family-owned restaurants in Guatemala, Afghan kebabs in Kabul, my academic and professional travels resonated not for their scholarly or business outcomes—but for the trials and tribulations in pursuit of taste. Then it dawned on me: Food feeds people – minds, bodies, souls – I want to feed people. I want to go to culinary school and make a career of feeding people. In the back of my mind, feeding people who did not have the means to purchase a meal was my ultimate goal. But first you have to feed people that will pay A LOT of money for food. You need to know how to “make it nice”. How to work fast, work clean, work hard, work long.

I built an incredible foundation of culinary skills at LAC that paved the way for me to work in a variety of other food-related business.  I worked on a food truck, at two restaurants, then was offered a tremendous opportunity to work for a start-up company in a glorified adult community center which housed, among other things, a 44-seat demonstration kitchen and state-of-the-art commercial kitchen. Building out culinary concepts – from gluten-free baking and pig butchering classes, to pop up restaurants, guest chef lectures, book talks, and demos – my food knowledge was a tremendous asset both behind the line and in the office.

But I missed the food. I missed the physical challenge of working in a kitchen. I missed the creativity that goes with cooking. And I missed doing good. So in January 2013 I joined the kitchen team at Miriam’s Kitchen as the Assistant Director of Kitchen Operations. At Miriam’s we provide nutritious meals and professional support services to more than 300 homeless men and women each day, which comes to more than 4,000 people annually. All of our food is made with fresh ingredients including whole grains, proteins, and local and organic fruit and vegetables donated from farmers, grocery retailers, hunters, and food vendors. I am part of a 4-person team that directs 15-20 volunteers per meal – providing our volunteers with culinary direction and an overall plan of attack to prep, serve, and break down breakfast and dinner services much like you would in a high-end restaurant. To someone in need, food is transformative; a good meal makes a prince of a pauper. You touch someone’s food, you touch their life.

Every week is like a “market basket” since we rely heavily on donated product. Because of that, our menus are local and seasonal. The skills I acquired at culinary school were crucial to a career in such a reactionary food field. The choice to pursue the culinary arts program at L’Academie de Cuisine was one of the best decisions I’ve made. The school gave me the opportunity to make industry connections I’ll keep forever, the breadth of skills and knowledge I am able to use in ventures both inside and outside of a traditional kitchen!

Pastry Grad, Meg Murray talks Thunder Pig & ThinkLocal First

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Buy tickets now to Thunder Pig’s Pop Up Dessert-ery Live at Hello Cupcake in Capitol Hill, every Monday night in April.

“As the daughter of two life-long entrepreneurs, I’ve always known that I wanted to own my own business.  I started Thunder Pig Confectionery in the hope of bringing delicious, organic sweets and baked goods to the DC area.  When I found out about Think Local First DC’s Start Up Kitchen Competition, I started working on a business plan immediately.  This was a challenge since I’ve never sweets3done anything like that before.  I had to develop products, understand my pricing, and create a long-term vision for a business that I had just started the month before.  I had lots of long conversations with my parents and friends, bouncing ideas off of them and, of course, making them official taste tasters.  I knew that even if I didn’t win the competition, it would be an amazing opportunity to get my brand noticed and make valuable industry connections.

Now that I’ve won, I’ve been so lucky to have the guidance andsupport of LAC, as well as so many industry experts; helping me evolve in my career. n Mondays at Hello Cupcake in Capitol Hill starting the first week in April. I’m incredibly excited about all the amazing things happening for Thunder Pig.”

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Ratatouille Nicoise

Ratatouille, the iconic stew of eggplant, tomatoes, corgettes (zucchini and summer squash to us), sweet bell peppers, and onions is indigenous to the South of France.  While it seems simple on the surface, with each chef that has cooked this dish since its inception, there are subtle and various nuances in technique.  Ultimately, the outcome is a mélange of the primary flavors of Provence; robust sun-riped vegetables stewed in a combination of juicy tomatoes and extra virgin olive oil, finished with herbs de provence, garlic and occasionally, basil.

While the name Ratatouille does not occur in print until 1930, the word itself has been in use since the late 18th century to generally mean a coarse stew.  It is derived from “ratouiller and tatouiller, two expressive forms of the French verb, touiller, meaning “to stir up.”  While permissive culinary grammarians allow ratatouille to mean any number of vegetable concoctions, the faithful know that ratatouille is but one combination of ingredients, though with some variance in preparation.   While one may cut each vegetable to a small dice, classically, ratatouille is coarser than that.  The vegetables should be cut large enough so that there is some distinction between the various ingredients, yet small enough that the odds are at least one piece of each ingredient will get scooped up in a forkful, ergo a mouthful.  And as always, each vegetable should be cut neatly into uniform shapes so that they cook evenly.

Since onions are involved, any recipe for ratatouille must begin with sweating those onions so they are tender and sweet.  To be sure, simply tossing peppers, summer squash, eggplant and tomatoes onto these onions and simmering with enough tomato and olive oil to keep it moist will result in a palatable dish, but there are opportunities here to optimize the potential of each vegetable before it is comingled with the others.  According to Chef Joel Robuchon, “the secret of a good ratatouille is to cook the vegetables separately so each will taste truly of itself.”

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A lesser cook will be tempted to start cutting and cooking at the same time, however the astute cook knows that the dish and the process will both benefit from first assembling all the mise en place first, before starting to cook.  So, dice the onions, and set them aside.  Bell peppers are good sweated or sauteed, but they are better roasted.  So, singe and char the skin of red and green peppers and peel them, remove their seeds, and chop them into shapes of a similar dimension as the onions and other vegetables.  This will enhance the flavor and texture of this stew.

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Zucchini and yellow squash should be young and tender, no gourds that are tough on the outside and spongy on the inside, if you please.  Courgettes the diameter of a champagne flute are ideal; these can be merely quartered lengthwise and chopped into pieces about ¾ of an inch on a side.

 

Eggplant should also be young and slender and firm, with skin tender enough to want to eat.  Avoid eggplants that are fat and old and spongy.  If vine-ripe summer tomatoes are not an option, then use good quality canned whole peeled plum tomatoes, preferably imported from San Marzano, Italy.  Over a strainer and a bowl, massage the seeds out of the tomatoes, dice the flesh, and reserve the strained juice.

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Peel and chop a lot of garlic, and have plenty of good quality olive oil on hand.  Permissable seasonings for finishing ratatouille, beside salt and pepper, include herbs de provence (either fresh or dried), and basil. Some locals have been known to use a pinch of saffron or marjoram.  But one thing is certain, ratatouille never comes in contact with parmesan cheese.

 

 

Ok, now that your mise en place is laid out before you, preheat the oven to 375 degrees.  Start cooking the onions in the pot that will eventually contain the entire stew.  This means selecting a heavy, wide, deep stew pot big enough to contain everything you are cooking.   With a generous pour of olive oil and a fat pinch of salt, stir the onions or medium heat, and keep them moving as they gradually sweat and throw off their strong vapors, leaving behind sweeter and more tender onions.

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Meanwhile in a bowl, toss the pieces of summer squash in plenty of olive oil, with salt and pepper.  Arrange the pieces on a sheet tray, and roast them in the oven for about 1/2 hour.  Do the same with the eggplant.  Returning to the onions, once they have released all their moisture, then let the heat gently caramelize the pieces of onion to a light brown.  By then it will be time to remove the roasted summer squash and the eggplant from the oven.

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Add the pieces of roasted peppers, roasted squash and eggplant to the onions.  Add the diced tomatoes and their seedless juice.  Add the garlic, begin to season with salt and pepper, and flavor with a pinch of herbs de provence.  Bring all this to a simmer, there should be enough tomato liquid and olive oil to keep it a stew and not a stir-fry.  Cover the pot with a lid that is just slightly offset, so that the food is smothered, but allows some vapors to vent.  This technique is called etuvee, which is where our Cajun Ettouffee comes from.

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Anyway, cook the ratatouille until the squash and eggplant are tender enough not to squeak on the teeth, about 1 hour.  Chill the ratatouille overnight.  The next day, adjust the seasoning, and add a splash of vinegar to brighten up all that olive oil and tomato.   Heat it up to serve as an accompaniment to roasted meats, braised fish, or scrambled eggs.  Or on a hot day, serve chilled with grilled crusty bread.

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French Onion Soup, Simple, traditional and oh so delicious

by Michael Gray

It always amazes me when I look through recipes for French Onion Soup. Most recipes have multitudes of ingredients and varied approaches to technique. The simple fact, though, is that great French Onion Soup can be made from just four basic ingredients: Onions, Stock, Bouquet Garni, and Seasoning.

Onions of course are central. But there is no need to use anything other than standard yellow onions. No need for sweet Vidailia, or expensive Wala-Wala’s, just the basic yellow onions get you where you need to go for full, sweet flavor.  Additionally, starting with Vidalia or other sweet onions can work, but they really have too much moisture in them to give you an effective caramelized glaze which is where the sweet should come from in the soup. The onions should be sliced thinly around the equator of the onion, not lengthwise. If you want them a little thicker that’s ok but just be sure however they are cut, they are all the same thickness. To really get to the degree of caramel that gives you the sweetness and just starts to bring the bitter notes that make it well-balanced you need to let the onions go and let the color develop in the pan.

So heat the pan, add some butter to coat the pan, and add the onions. Once you start to hear the onions stop releasing moisture you will start to hear the sizzle and crackle that is building the fond on the pan – and the flavors.  Often overlooked, the pan is really important here as well – it should be stainless steel. There is no way to get caramelized onions  from a non-stick pan. Once the fond has developed in the pan, simply use water and a wooden spoon  to add back some moisture and deglaze the pan. Each repetition of this process builds flavor. And yes, you have to do this repeatedly. It takes time to build the flavors properly.  With the first deglaze you have a chance to bring added flavor through seasoning with a bouquet garni – a little satchel of parsely, thyme, bay leaf and black peppercorns. Depending on the stock you are using you may or may not need this added flavor boost.

Once the onions are completely soft  and a wonderful deep caramel color, the final deglaze should come from white wine, or another acidic form such as lemon juice or a white wine vinegar, but wine is best here. After reducing the wine and getting one more glaze on the pan it is time to add the next important ingredient – the stock. To me the use of a homemade chicken stock is the way to go here.  I also use homemade vegetable stock if I want to keep it fully vegetarian for a guest. Nothing wrong with beef stock, but much harder to make at home. If you do not make your own stock, be sure to choose a variety that is unsalted – not  “lower sodium”- so that you can season to taste and not overwhelm the flavors you took so much time building with a salt bomb that comes from most store-bought stocks and bouillon cubes.

Add the stock and use it to get that final glaze from the wine reducing off the bottom of the pan. At this point you have a fully built soup that just needs to be properly seasoned with salt and pepper.

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The deep, dark color really comes from the caramelized onions, not the addition of dark beef stock, Worcestershire sauce,  soy sauce, Port, Cognac or any other additions seen in many recipes.

Presentation is a matter of preference really. You can serve this soup very well straight up, or go the route of serving it gratinee which is commonly associated with it.

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If you do not have the little gratinee bowls do not let it discourage you from enjoying the soup. Serve the toasted baguette and cheese on the side. It still makes a great soup if you cannot present it like this:

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So Onions, Stock, BG, and Salt & Pepper. Simple, traditional and oh so delicious.

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